Friday, July 30, 2010

Potlicker Update

Well the issues with the Potlicker have been mooted. He is going home soon. Personal drama. Unfortunately I can't talk about any of it. Work will continue. I will be going back to the Kobyasi Maru next week and to Takoradi.

Thursday, July 29, 2010

The Potlicker

Our team lead said when we started this trip that we would eventually get on one another's nerves. He also said we would end up with road nicknames. Well he was right on both counts.

Since all they have for coffee here is instant (at least, so far as we have seen) I brought back a French press coffee maker and five bags of ground coffee from the UK. Making real coffee immediately became a part of our morning and afternoon routine. The Aussies in the office here have no interest in the stuff, so it's our own private party. Two people on the team have asked me how much I spent and paid me back their share. One person has not. This is the same person who always brings up that "we" should make coffee. When "we" make coffee he always comes and stands in the room expectantly for a cup to be made for him, but he is far too lazy to prepare it himself or to rinse the pot out after. I have dubbed him the Potlicker. My other teammates asked the origin of the expression, which I'll leave for you to Google. But as I came to know the term, in fishing, it's the person who is too lazy to find his own fish so he finds someone who has already found the fish and crowds in on their spot.

I know some of you will ask why I am tolerating this and not demanding he pay me back or start charging him by the cup. I may do that. But I first wanted to wait to give him a chance to contribute. Let's call it a character test. So far the rest of the team does not have nicknames. Yet.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

A Day in the Life

We got the Internet back at the main office and then the power went out for an afternoon. Then the power came back on and the water went out for two days. Today we have power and water and we are waiting for something else to happen.

Update: It was the water. It's out again.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Mixed Success

Made it back with the Boddingon case intact. No questions or issues at the airport. The only failure I encountered is because of asenine airport security and bag limit rules. Another of my companions had requested a bottle of Chimay. I was able to find it (which wasn't easy) and even package it for being checked (cause we can't have any liquids, gels, or aerosols in our carryon luggage unless they are 3 oz or less size containers and fit in a one qt clear plastic ziplock bag, mmmkay?) KLM said this would put me over my bag count limit and they wanted me to pay a €255 extra bag fine for this one little box with €16 worth of Belgian beer in it. I tried explaining to them that this was a stupid policy, that a weight limit rather than a count limit made more sense, and even suggested the duty free guys could go back to the store and buy more and seal up the package for me. They wouldn't have any of it and as my time was running out I had to just abandon six bottles of Chimay in the airport for someone to pick up and toss. #$%^&*!

Anyway, the flight was fine, work is work, and I am now safely back in my room in Ghana.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Goin' Back to Ghana

I'm goin' back to Ghana, Ghana, Ghana.
I'm goin' back to Ghana.
I don't think so.

- Apologies to Notorious B.I.G.

I finished the OPITO training yesterday. We had to put out fires using different kinds of fire extinguishers--CO2, foam, and a solid, and saw the differences in the way you should approach putting out different types of fires. Then we put on smoke hoods and had to feel out way out of a smoke-filled building with doors, stairs, and floors that you had to step up or down in between some areas. The last bit was loading everyone into a lifeboat (not a life raft) and being lowered into the pristine waters of the Tees.

Now that I am certified it's time to head back to Ghana. While the course was intense, it was good to get away for a while. Yesterday evening and today I went shopping looking for things we don't have acess to in Ghana. One of my companions requested a case of English bitter, and it will be interesting to see how far I get through customs with that! It's in cans, and I am worried bout it rupturing in/on the plane but I am committed and it's now my quest to return it to Ghana. It is still enclosed in the cardbord bottom and plastic wrap, and I've wrapped it all in bubble wrap and put it in a large bag with clothes stuffed all around. I also bought a French press coffee maker and five different kinds of gound coffee (which is difficult to find in the UK; it's mostly instant--horrible stuff, no wonder the Brits prefer their tea). Also a package of Colman's English mustard. They have mustard in Ghana, or so they will tell you, but it's not the same.

By far the best meal I had here was at La Pharmacie in Middlesbrough. It used to the be Purple Onion. Funny that the Purple Onion still exists in the form of a web site, advertising its fare, yet when you get there it's completely rebranded as La Parmacie. The fillet was wonderful, which is great because I shan't have a steak like that for at least 4 more weeks (yes, I have been in the UK long enough that I am starting to pick up some words). The fish and chips so readily available here is also good but of course very greasy.

Anyway, I will try to post some pictures once I am back in Ghana. The hotel here charges a PER MINUTE rate for Internet access.

Thursday, July 22, 2010

OPITO Training Day 2

Today we started with a review of how the rebreather works. It's basically a snorkel attached to an air bag. You inhale, and then blow into this thing. Close the valve, and exhale through your mouth. You are blowing air into the rebreather. Now you can inhale and "rebreathe" the same air. They give you nose clips so you don't inhale a nosefull of water.

Our first exercise was to use the rebreather underwater for 20 seconds. It's MUCH easier on the ground than in the water. Then we had to use an underwater handrail to pull ourselves across to the other side of the pool while using the rebreather. My noseclips slid right off. Very unpleasant, but I made it across. They gave me some tape to put on my nose to keep them on.

The helicopter evacuation was the part I was dreading the most, and I was about to panic on the first run. We did six dunks: one where we held our breath on our own and swam out the window, one with the rebreather (which was actually harder for me) and one with the rebreather but the window was closed and we had to push it out. Then we did these three again but with the helicopter capsized--we were turned upside down. By the last time on each one I was gaining confidence but I can tell you it's still not something I would do for fun. Next is lunch and then the fire safety portion of the course.

Sorry I don't have pictures but we have to leave everything in lockers and there is no where to carry a camera in the suit! This is pretty much exactly what it looks like, except my window seemed a lot smaller than the ones in this picture! We went through it four at a time:



OPITO Training Day 1

It has been wonderful to be in the UK for a day. I can drink tap water and fresh vegetables and have real coffee. Upon my arrival I walked around the area near my hotel and in the afternoon took a rail to York, where I spent the rest of the day walking around and taking in the sights. York has lots of brick-paved streets closed to cars you can walk around and go in the shops. Lots of history everywhere you look.

When I arrived at the training facility I was sent straight upstairs to a “canteen” which I would have called a kitchen or even a galley. There were about 25 men there sitting around and talking or watching the BBC. At 8:30 someone came in and asked for all the renewals who were taking the one day training to come with him, and some people got up and left with him. Now we were 16.

We went into a classroom and had a basic safety introduction course and exam, not unlike a defensive driving course. The course is geared towards the UK and we talked mostly about working in the North Sea. We also talked about the lessons learned from a big platform disaster in the 80s called Piper Alpha. After lunch we had more lecture and discussion, then the “fun” began.

First we changed into a thermal suit that they wear in the UK when travelling over water. It’s supposed to protect you from hypothermia if you get dropped into the ice cold waters of the North Sea. (You don’t get these suits in Ghana!). Then we went into a room with a large swimming pool and put on life vests. We jumped into the pool and bobbed about like corks. We learned how to swim around in these life vests, then the exercises got more intense. You can’t see around you or turn your head very well from the position the life vest puts you in. We had to find a diver who was calling out to us and swim over to him. We experienced both calm conditions and a rough sea at evening with spray getting in our faces. After that we learned how to get into the life raft that resembled a floating tent, and paddle away to safety. The instructor had told us good morale was important in these situations and that we could not be rescued until he knew we had achieved it. So we would be rescued only after he could hear us singing. So we sixteen men are all in a small life raft piled on top of one another, the air is stifling because we are enclosed inside the raft, and we are up and down in rough water. I have no idea how they agreed to do it but all at once they started singing “You’ve got to look on the bright side of life” from the movie Life of Brian. Too funny. A winch with a loop at the end simulated a helicopter rescue and each of us was pulled out of the raft up about 10 feet to a platform. That was Day 1.

Monday, July 19, 2010

HBAs and Goats

Spent the day trying to coax HP blades into recognizing iSCSI HBAs. But it wasn't as much fun as it sounds! Only one in 5 worked, and they are all exactly the same! Maddening. I am about to go finish packing and head out for the safety training. I can hold my breath about 45 seconds before I start feeling desperate for air. Hopefully that will do!

Here's a random picture before I go of some Ghanian goats. These little goats run loose around the capital city. They're not everywhere, but you do see them about as often as you would see a stray dog. Maybe more. I am sure they belong to someone, though. They are cute but very shy and if you go up to them they run away.

Vodaphone

Since the ISP's connection keeps goes down, I have had to entertain myself while waiting for access to be restored so I can configure servers, download drivers, etc. For the moment it's back up! So in tribute to Vodaphone, who has been down more than up the past couple of days, here is a little ditty to be sung to tune of Paul Simon's Kodachrome...

When I think back
On all the crap I've seen in Ghana
It's a wonder
I can surf at all
And though my lack of access
Hasn't hurt me none
I can read the writing on the wall

Vodaphone
You promise those fast connections
You'll put us on the Internet
And support our DM-VPN, oh yeah!
I got an HP laptop
I'd love to surf the Internet
So Ghana, don't take my Vodaphone away

Friday, July 16, 2010

Going to Chavtown

OK, so it looks like I can no longer avoid undergoing the HUET safety training. The team lead wants me to go back to the KM but I can't go without the safety training. So I have to take the class where you get strapped into a seat, dumped into a swimming pool -- upside down -- and get out. All well and good if you're a swimmer, I guess. I'm not. Swimming isn't supposed to be a required skill but it certainly must help. I am not looking forward to it.

There is good news and bad news about this safety training. The good news is that they are sending me to the UK for it. So I get a brief break from Ghanamania. The bad news is they are sending me to Billingham. Billingham is a small industrial town in the northeast part of England. From what I gather the biggest attraction in town is a Woolworths.

You should know that in the UK there is a slang word chav for a subculture of young people who stereotypically wear track suits, baseball caps, and gaudy jelwery ("chav-wear"). They embrace hip hop and gang culture but are also racist; overall they are considered thieving miscreants, and are a subject of much derision and ridicule, in a similar way to the "redneck" culture back in the US. Billingham is apparently their capital city. You can read more about chavs here.



Now that you are prepared, here is what the Internet has to say about Billingham, courtesy of chavtowns.co.uk.

Built in the shadow of a large chemical factory, the cloud of violently toxic air around Billingham may explain the disproportionate number of chavs in such a small town. They breed in a corner of John Whitehead Park and pop out of little eggs that have a Fila logo on the side. Even the dogs are chavs in Billingham. * * *

The introduction of Heroin in the early nineties brought with it the evolution of the Chav who had to get out of bed in the morning to feed his habit. Their ghoulish presence around the Town Centre makes a trip to Woolworths an experience akin to waking up as an extra in ‘Zombie Flesh Eaters’. Even their grey little progeny stare fixedly at your wallet whilst rubbing pastie into their tracksuit bottoms.

The chavettes are rarely distinguishable from their male counterparts, sporting the same sportswear, caps and argos ‘gold’. However, more advanced chavthropologists may spot the giveaway Winnie the Pooh tattoo or smaller ‘lady’ knife.

Don’t go to Billingham if you can help it. It may cause such a profound depression that you may never recover.


Should be an interesting side trip! Not sure when I'm leaving yet, though.

Tuesday, July 13, 2010

Local Food!

Fish Head SoupToday we had a little extra time to kill because we were waiting for the cabling guys to do their thing. So we went to a local restaurant to eat local food. There is a pasty dish called fufu, which has no taste to speak of so you dip it in a soup before you eat it for flavor. You're not supposed to chew the fufu; just swallow. I couldn't do that, though, and it got stuck in my teeth like gum. They also had some fish soup but I wasn't too interested. I had the "goat light soup" instead. It wasn't bad but I think I will stick to eating at the Western restaurants! Oh, and it was super cheap. We fed six people lunch for about USD $30.

Saturday, July 10, 2010

Brief Update

I was away 10 days and the other guys in the group can't remember what meetings and conversations I was there for and which I wasn't. They talk about "don't you remember when blah blah" and I remind them I wasn't with them when that happened! (Thanks, guys!) Today has been a work day; mostly setting up servers and downloading and applying updates. We don't have the server room ready yet so we are building machines stacked up on tablesin an office. About the most exciting thing that happened today was I found a bag of salt & vinegar chips for sale. Hope they're good; I am saving them for the World Cup game (assuming we watch it at the hotel).

I am told that only one special dispensation is permitted per person, so since I don't have the required safety training, I will not be returning to the Kobayashi Maru when the rest of the team goes. Instead I will be staying in Accra or Takoradi to do network stuff. Their trip is still probably a couple of weeks away. We are only now to the point we can put together a tentative outline and we can see how if things went very smoothly we would be done by mid-August. Of course, things don't always go smoothly in Africa. Check out this screen cap from a download I attempted yesterday:

Friday, July 9, 2010

This is a video from the US/Ghana game and Ghana had just scored against the US. You can see how excited the locals were. We now have a faster Internet connection at the office; I'm only now able to upload it. This was shot in the hotel bar in Accra.

Thursday, July 8, 2010

Back to Accra

I made it back to Accra this afternoon. Our first stop was Takoradi. Coming through customs I was asked if I smoke. "No." The customs agent went through every pocket of each bag and waved me on. One of my travelling companions who does smoke told me later that the same customs agent searced his bag, found his cigarettes, and made him give up one. In Accra, someone chatted me up while I waited for my driver at the airport and followed me to the car, asking for a 10 cedi tip! Yep, we are back in Africa!

Travel Day

Found out today I am going back to Takoradi tomorrow (today for me) at 9:30 am and then on to Accra in the early afternoon. We have the virses under control and there is other work to be done. I don't know if I'm coming back or staying behind when the other guys go. I spent the evening watching Spain beat Germany and then hanging out with a couple of Singaporeans... it was interesting to hear their opinions about Singapore and other Asian countries. You know Singapore. It's the country that canes you for vandalizing cars. Know what? People there don't vandalize cars. Anyway it was nice to socialize and not work for a couple of hours.

Tuesday, July 6, 2010

Letters and Numbers

Last night one of the IT guys here tried to switch the satellite antenna for the Internet to a different satellite, so Internet was down for a while. We used the provided data but it never connected.

A while ago: Hello? "I can't log in." Your password is H0use. Capital H-zero-u-s-e. "That doesn't work." Yes it does. Don't make me come out there and show you. "No, it doesn't work." Sigh. Go out topside, which requires changing into protective gear, hard hat, etc. Walk walk walk. OK, show me. Type in Capital H. He presses SHIFT and H. OK, now type zero. He presses the "O" key. Arrrrgggghhhh! So I sent him to go fetch me a door key that I already had.

Sunday, July 4, 2010

The Doctor is In

Q. Do they have a 4th of July in Ghana?
A. Yes, every year between the third and fifth. :-P

Doing the virus scans has given me an opportunity to speak to every kind of person here at the KM. From the top boss all the way down to the second assistant cook. They call me the doctor. And the computer doctor is like a bartender... everyone wants to talk to me and share their woes and tell their stories. Some of these guys have been working and travelling in the third world for many years and they have some wild tales of things they have seen or experienced. Most of them are about how bad Nigeria is. Someone pointed out that people on board are more sociable than you might expect, and opined the reason is that without Internet access, they really have no choice but to get out and interact with others. Sounds reasonable to me.

Last night I told the kitchen crew I would scan their laptops for viruses and next thing I knew there were 10 Filipinos setting up their laptops for me to scan! We had as many as would fit on a table lined up. These guys tell me they work six months straight on the vessel. Other than the TV, their laptops are about the only source of entertainment they have. So they are very happy to have their machines looked at. In all I scanned and cleaned over 20 computers yesterday. In theory I could do all of all 120 estimated computers in one day, assembly-line style but I would have to have them all up and plugged in at once and that is logistically impossible.

Friday, July 2, 2010

KM Day 5

Every day the helicopter comes twice for shift changes. I am in the radio room so I get to hear the chatter between the pilot and the radio guy. The helicopter pilot has a French accent and you can almost see the sneer as he finds something to complain about every time he lands. We keep making fun of him by imitating his accent and saying ridiculous things like "Nex time we come back you will have for me ze escargot!" and I am afraid one time he will hear us.

I have been scanning Chinese language laptops from Singapore and Arabic keyboard laptops from Dubai. Everyone seems to have the same viruses, and the uniformity helps. We're actually lucky they don't have Internet in place already for the masses or we'd be in much worse shape as these little devils downloaded 100 of their closest friends. Even the iPods and SD cards are infected.

Sorry there are no pictures yet but the Internet has been slower than usual. I am getting about 5kb/sec transfer rates or less, and I am grateful even for that. I get to wear jeans in the living area of the Kobyashi Maru but if I want to explore and see the other side of this place I have to wear coveralls and protective gear. I got coveralls yesterday but they are new and smelled terrible. So I put the in the daily laundry drop. They came back today only slightly less smelly! I would go explore but I was up till 2:30 am yesterday cleaning computers of viruses (remember our day starts at 6:00 AM!). The Ghana game is on now but I didn't get to watch it! My companions back in Accra are out tonight to a sports bar frequented by both locals and ex-pats to watch the game. That would be more fun, I think, but I don't miss Accra. No one here is trying to hustle me.

Can't believe I have been on board 5 days. I am doing ok but Saturday will be two weeks away from home and that is about the time you really start to feel it. I miss all of you and hope things are going well. The Internet phone has basically no hope with the bandwidth we have today but I hope to be able to make some calls soon.

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